Interview Graham Charles words: Dunbar Hardy
photos: Marcus Waters, Mark Jones, Graham Charles
New Zealander Graham Charles is a well-rounded paddler with successful sea kayaking expeditions all over the world and numerous first descents of whitewater rivers all around his home turf. He captures his passion for paddling and adventure through his camera and pen, and is awell-published photographer and author of numerous books of his endeavors. His extensive whitewater background recently served himwellwith his successful first sea kayak circumnavigation of the hostile South Georgia Island in the South Atlantic Ocean. Wherever Graham has ventured to paddle and travel, he has returned with great stories and inspiring photography that capture all the hardships and beauty along the way.
Having just successfully completed the first circumnavigation of South Georgia
Island in the remote and hostile South Atlantic Ocean, we caught up with kayaker
Graham Charles to find out how the expedition went and to learn more about his
style of expedition sea kayaking. Not only did we enjoy hearing his gruesome
paddling tales, but we also gained an appreciation for this well-rounded paddler,
photographer, and author. New Zealand-born, Graham began his paddling career in
whitewater kayaks back in 1981, and went on to train and race internationally for
the New Zealand National Team. His comfort in the most challenging rapids in a
whitewater kayak has transferred easily into an intense focus on sea kayak trips in
hostile ocean environments. His list of recent missions includes successful sea kayak
expeditions to the Antarctic Peninsula, Tierra del Fuego, Chile, Greenland and Baffin
Island. Solid technical skills, an extensive background in wilderness leadership and
instruction, and a good old Kiwi attitude of "she'll be right!" have meant that
Graham seldom turns away from any unfavorable conditions for an extended paddling
expedition. Not just a paddler, Graham also shares his trips through his photography
and writing, and he is the author of numerous books of his paddling exploits.
Graham wrote the one and only guidebook to all of New Zealand’s whitewater rivers
(now going into its 4th edition) and has also produced the Frozen Coast about his
Antarctic Peninsula expedition. Feeling glad to be warm and comfortable, we settled
in and talked with Graham about being cold and wet, and what drives him to be an
expedition sea kayaker tackling some of the world’s least explored waters.
PW - Congratulations on the South Georgia Island Expedition. Can you tell us
what this trip was all about? GC - South Georgia Island is located in the South Atlantic Ocean about 100 miles
due east of the Falkland Islands and just north of the Antarctic Peninsula. The team
consisted of Marcus Waters, Mark Jones, and myself. We paddled for 600 kilometers
over 19 days. It was an expedition circumnavigating a small island that is second
to none on the globe for the amount of wildlife present. It was also great that no
one had done it, and that again many people said it was impossible. The weather
was the biggest challenge and threat of death winds hung over our heads most days.
The weather was absolute crap and bloody cold for 15 of the days, and good for only
the last four. It was a great mission though.
PW - What is the history of other paddling expeditions to South Georgia Island?
GC – There have been two other attempts. The first was a team of British army guys
who went clockwise and got nailed trying to get around Cape Disappointment. They
ended up running out of food and eating penguins and seals to survive – not a good
look! The other attempt was by a mixed Australian/US team that went counter
clockwise and got around as far as King Haakon Bay. One of the paddlers got
tumbled in a wave and they decided to bail. They dragged their kayaks for 6
kilometers across Shackleton Gap back to Possession Bay and headed back the way
they had come. So the Southwest Coast of South Georgia has this formidable
reputation that stood as the greatest challenge.
PW - How long did it take to plan this mission? Where did inspiration for this
expedition come from?
GC – Our South Georgia Island mission, known as the Unclaimed Coast Expedition,
was two years in the planning, ever since our expedition to Tierra del Fuego, Chile
in 2003. We’d talked about it while in Tierra del Fuego and it got the wheels in
motion. The inspiration was in place because I’d been to South Georgia and was in
love with the place and also because it hadn’t been done.
PW - How cold was it really? GC – We were totally coated in ice all day long while paddling, except for our arms
because they were constantly moving. The ice didn’t melt off the decks of the kayaks
for 6 days in a very cold snap. It was very ugly to be honest.
PW - You have also spent a lot of time paddling up in Greenland. GC – Yes. I’ve spent over 4 1/2 months total time up there. I have been working in
Greenland and the Baffin Island region guiding sea kayakers. It is a lot of fun being
in the middle of the pack ice and being in the water with walrus and polar bears
(one this season popped up about 30 feet away!). Yes it is often cold, but often it
is really nice as well.
PW – You have also taught Survival Training in Antarctica. Sounds brutal. What
is that all about?
GC - Every scientist who arrives at Scott Base or McMurdo Station has to go through
a four-day survival program. They have to learn how to pitch tents in gale winds,
how to live in 100 mph winds, camp in it for weeks and stay healthy and clean, how
to light stoves, how to build igloos and snow shelters, and how to travel on sea ice.
PW – All this sounds so extreme and hardcore. Sum up the challenges of
paddling/traveling/living in these colder environments such as Greenland, South
Georgia, and Antarctica. GC - It’s cold - ha! Most things are just harder to do. Your hands are freezing and
all the risks are higher. So you have to be very well organized or good at
improvising, which as a Kiwi is what we are known to do the best. I just like
paddling in cold challenging weather. I honestly just get bored in the sunshine, ha!
PW – What it that appeals to you about these self-support sea kayak
expeditions? GC - I like doing these trips that people say are impossible because they clearly are
not impossible. It is just that no one has really taken a high-end whitewater/long
distance paddler and stuck them in a sea kayak in such hostile environments. So I
have a head start into it, which makes it easy to find trips. Also, it really is the
only way to cover huge distances in really remote regions while being self-powered
(no boats, no helicopters).
PW - What are some mental aspects/challenges for you personally in expedition
sea kayaking? GC - I’m very goal-driven and very passionate about tasks. When I set my sights
onto something, it will consume my every waking hour. I also love going to places
where people haven’t been and I enjoy the solitude. I relish the requirement for
resourcefulness and improvisation that these explorations demand. No textbook or
rules will help, as you have to be constantly problem solving. It’s kind of the
cerebral challenge now that I’m into.
PW – You are coated in ice, the kayak is constantly crashing through waves, and
you are battling a long head wind, what keeps you going? GC – I admit staying sane is a challenge at times. It is very important to keep the
end in sight with all of these trips. There is the need to keep the goal very clear,
otherwise it can all just not seem worth it when you are wet, cold and miserable. I
do still wonder why I didn’t just stay home, ha!
PW – Talking about harsher environments as well as ‘on your toes’ thinking and
resourcefulness, what does it mean to you to accomplish a first descent or
circumnavigation for instance? GC – Keeping on your toes is required these days and that’s why the unknown is so
important. It makes a HUGE difference once a problem is solved by others and
proved to be possible. It still makes it technically the same, but the level and feeling
of commitment are radically reduced. For example its like someone running an
unknown rapid or waterfall, once the first person goes there is a lot of information
for those following so it isn’t quite the same. Even just ‘knowing’ it is possible makes
a big difference over ‘thinking it might be possible’.
PW – In the midst of all of your wanderings and projects you are also involved in
a company. Tell us what it is all about? GC – I created a company, Adventure Philosophy, with my mates Marcus Waters and
Mark Jones. We wish to inspire others in all walks of life to seek their own
adventures, pursue their dreams, be creative, and value the world around them. We
share this philosophy through our core values of inspirational role modeling,
personal adventure, professionalism, integrity, and high quality sharing via all forms
of media. Adventure Philosophy believes in an adventurous spirit - the determination
to pursue a dream or vision, the tenacity to overcome barriers, a willingness to take
calculated risks, and a respect and affinity for the earth. Ultimately, we believe that
an adventurous spirit lies in the heart of people, and that is what makes up a healthy
society.
PW – How did you guys all come together? GC - I went to high school with Marcus and have explored and adventured with him
since we were 13. Mark, Marcus and I all worked together at the Sir Edmund Hillary
Outdoor Pursuits Center on the North Island for many years and had lots of cool
adventures and shared the same spirit. Adventure Philosophy was in my head prior
to our Antarctica trip in 2001, but that expedition became the launching platform.
We did it to create an entity and icon in NZ that stood for many of the values that
NZ prides itself on but is losing to the McDonaldization of the world.
PW – Can you say a little bit more about your paddling background? GC – I started in a whitewater kayak in 1981. Formal paddling instruction was just
starting back then and I first had it from British expedition paddler/instructor Mick
Hopkinson. It was like being in a boot camp, lots of drills and going fast. I loved
that and that is why I first loved slalom racing and training. I also fell in with Kiwi
paddler Donald Johnstone who is the 10-time New Zealand National Slalom
Champion. I paddled whitewater slalom full time from 1985 – 1991 with lots of hard
paddling in between. During those years I spent a lot of time in Nottingham
hanging with the British team. I raced internationally in Trewyran, Nottingham,
Bourg St Maurice, Augsburg, Val de Sol, Merrano, Inn, Llubjana, Croatia. I raced in
the Pre World’s in 1988, the World’s on the Savage River, Maryland in 1989, and Pre
World’s in 1990 in Croatia. After all that slalom I took up multi-sport racing
(flatwater kayaking) beginning in 1992 and marathon kayak racing as well.
I honestly never really sat in a sea kayak until 2000.
PW – After having so much experience and passion for whitewater paddling, how
did you first get into sea kayaking? GC – I started writing and photographing a coffee table style book on the best places
in NZ to go sea kayaking. I thoroughly enjoyed being out there and certainly
enjoyed exploring Fiordland way down on the south end of the South Island. It is
always beautiful, especially in the heart of winter. It is very remote, with very few
people. I love being able to go into an area and not see anyone. My favorite time
there is mid winter, as we get these steady high-pressure systems that give calm and
cold weather. It’s all yours to go anywhere you want. It was rough and tumble for
sure with weather on my initial trip there, but my whitewater skills made it easy.
PW – Describe the transition of skills for you from an extensive whitewater
paddling background into becoming an expedition sea kayaker. GC - I just find the transition into sea kayaking easy and am not as intimidated by
huge long distances or bad weather as most sea kayakers. I can roll and it always
amazes me that sea kayakers consider this a guru thing to do with a fully loaded
kayak. With all the training people do on how to do a zillion different rescues, they
could go on a course and learn to roll and solve most of their problems. This is an
adventure ethic, not necessarily a sea kayaking per se ethic. I’m a bit of a phony
really. I’m not a good sea kayaker and don’t really follow tides or wind charts. I
just get in the boat and go regardless. I also am always carrying lots of heavy stuff
(camera’s, video gear, sound gear, wine etc). I’ve never sawed the end off my
toothbrush!! I tend to use a sea kayak as a way to get somewhere rather than the
activity itself. I get a bit bored if there isn’t something very cool to see or if
weather isn’t keeping me on my toes.
PW - Do you feel that a sea kayak does indeed offer you the means to ‘get
somewhere’? Is it a good means of transportation into some wild places out
there? GC – Yes, absolutely. Sure I could go to some places in a boat or helicopter, but
that seems the antithesis to what I want to experience and achieve. I don’t want
other people around. I love nothing more than knowing that I am miles and miles
from any form of help and all decision-making and accountability is mine and mine
alone.
PW – You have a very extensive amount of outdoor instruction background,
which, perhaps, has also led to your success on some of your expeditions. Can
you describe in more detail your outdoor education experience? GC – I worked in outdoor education from 1983 – 1997 as my sole source of income.
One of my final positions was the Chief Instructor at the Outdoor Pursuits Center in
charge of 27 instructors. We focused on experiential development and leadership
development through the outdoors and ran a range of school programs for 14 – 17
year olds. I used to run all the skills courses – mountaineering, rock climbing, and
kayaking – as well as teach rescue courses. Lately I have also worked in Antarctica
doing survival training, safety stuff for film crews, and have run a ski patrol and
avalanche safety program. So I’ve been out of doors a lot, and tried to share these
skills with others.
PW – You are also quite the photographer. How did you begin? GC – I have always been an enthusiast and tried to get an internship with a
newspaper when I left school, but failed. Undeterred, I kept shooting photos. I wrote
and photographed the 1st edition of the NZ Whitewater guidebook in 1997, and
afterwards I got lots of strong feedback that material was great. I decided to give
photography more of a shot, as no one was carrying heavy top quality gear into
these river trips at the time. Now lots of people are into it and very good, hence
this magazine! I love photography with a passion and will never stop learning about
its subtleties.
PW - What do you try to capture with your photos? What is your motivation as
a photographer? GC – I’m trying to capture the essence of human involvement in activities. I like to
create the idea that viewers are on the inside and looking out, like they are there
on the trip or seeing it through our eyes. I’m keen to make it to a level of subtlety
with landscapes that gets acknowledged as well. I love getting different angles and
weird shots that make people say, "oh, that’s different." Since I’m fit and relatively
healthy, I can get into some weird places, climb cliffs, lie in the mud, get cold, and
generally beat myself up trying to get these types of pictures.
PW – You are also the author of several books. Can you outline some of your
writing background? GC – I first wrote The NZ Whitewater Guidebook in 1997, and am currently working
on the 4th edition. I’ve also published The Frozen Coast about our expedition of the
Antarctic Peninsula. Honestly though, I prefer to photograph. I enjoy writing but
my natural style is conversational/travel-logue/humor type stuff, which is why
guidebooks work well for me. Other styles take a lot of time and effort, so I prefer
to have other people write the articles.
PW – What writing/photo projects do you have coming up? GC – I have two other books in the works. One is an anthology of classic Kiwi
outdoor epic tales. I will also produce a South Georgia Island book. We’ll have to
find a publisher somewhere. It is a great story and a great milestone in Antarctica’s
history and the history of expedition paddling. I also have lots of magazine work
around the country and overseas.
PW - What are some dream trips you would like to take? GC – I want a long journey that involves some other culture. I’d like to do some
photojournalism in Asia, climb some unclimbed peaks in China. I’d also like to drag
a sled to the South Pole and climb some big walls up in Greenland and Baffin Island
that can only be accessed by sea kayaks. No one is really doing that; they all fly or
get fishing boats. That’s cheating, ha! Seems like a cool thing to do and a unique
multi-element type of expedition. Tierra del Fuego and Antarctica are also ripe for
future self-support expedition style trips, but they are tough climates.
PW – It seems like water really is a major focus of your life. What about it
captures you? GC - I love the environment and the flow of water. I love the need to constantly
change with the water - the ebb and flow. I love the power of the water
environment, both whitewater and the ocean, as both are very awesome. And I love
the people that are drawn to it. They seem a lot more similar than in many other
activities. Like beginner climbers and experts don’t mix because they are in
completely different areas – but a play session may see complete novices and worldrenowned
experts hanging out in the same eddy. This is great. I am so glad to be
a paddler.
Thanks for your time. We wish you well out there Graham.
For more information on the South Georgia Island Expedition,
go to www.adventurephilosophy.com and for information on Graham’s
photography/writing, go to www.imagematters.co.nz.