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Selecting a paddle
words: Nigel Foster
Paddles come in so many shapes and sizes, how do you choose what’s best? Let’s start with the obvious; what is a paddle for? Two important concepts are that the blade grips the water, and you pull your kayak past it. So how well does your blade grip the water, and how much leverage can your body comfortably apply to pulling your kayak through the water?
Choosing a blade type
There are three basic types of blade: dihedral, spoon and flat curve. Most blades curve in a similar way from shaft to tip, so the types vary in the shape from side to side.
A spoon blade is curved inward from top to bottom and side to side. Hold a spoon blade face-up, pour water onto it and the water will pool in the middle. A spoon blade grabs the water most effectively when you paddle and will therefore be most efficient for creating forward momentum. However, the first thing you’ll notice when you pull straight back on a spoon blade is that it will flutter, reducing your grip on the water. You can eliminate this flutter by guiding the blade edge first away from the kayak as you pull back on it. This technique does take practice though and many beginners will try to reduce the flutter initially by gripping the paddle harder, which is not good for the joints and could lead to injury. A spoon blade can also be tricky for maneuvering strokes as it is likely to curve, trip or dive when slicing the blade away from the boat or skimming it across the surface.
Unlike the spoon blade, the dihedral is ridged like a roof. If you pour water onto a dihedral it will drain rapidly from both sides. This shape means it will grip the water less efficiently, but it will also flutter far less on a regular forward stroke. For beginners the dihedral may be easier to paddle with initially, slipping instead of fluttering when more power is applied and eliminating the desire to grip the paddle too tightly. As with the spoon blade, the dihedral does tend to curve or dive on maneuvering strokes or braces.
A flat curve blade is curved only from top to bottom and is flat from side to side. It is similar to the spoon blade in that it will flutter when pulled straight back, reducing your grip on the water. As with the spoon blade, adjusting your forward stroke can eliminate this issue but it takes some skill and practice. The advantage of the flat curve is that in maneuvering strokes it will remain neutral, slicing cleanly and accurately from one position in the water to another, instead of curving, diving or tripping.
Most blades are a compromise. You sacrifice something to gain something else. Whatever you choose, in most situations you’ll be able to maintain sufficient speed to keep up with your friends. Try to feel the differences and choose what you like. You’ll notice the difference between one style of blade and another most when under load; accelerating, paddling against current or wind or breaking through waves, or when towing someone. When flat-water cruising at slow speeds you won’t see as much difference.
Length of shaft
That brings me to my second concept - how much leverage can you comfortably handle? If you get a rock-solid grip on the water, your body will only be able to handle a certain amount of leverage, and that increases with the length of the shaft. You will feel the effect of a longer paddle in the muscles and joints of your shoulders, elbows and wrists. If you ride a bike, you might relate to accelerating using a high gear versus a low gear. With a long paddle it is hard work getting up to speed and it is hard work pushing against the wind or against the current, but it’s not too bad once you are up to speed if conditions are easy. If your paddle is too short you’ll find it really easy to accelerate and easy to paddle against that wind or current, but you’ll have to cycle your paddle rapidly to maintain cruising speed. The compromise lies somewhere between. But it is better for your body if you choose a shorter rather than longer shaft.
Some general length guidelines
For me a paddle length of about 208-210cm for touring works well. I’m 6 feet tall, and I like to maneuver a lot, so a fairly short, flat-curve blade works well in combination with that overall length for my paddling style.
For kayaks between about 18-24 inches wide I’d recommend a paddle of between 200 and 215. If you’re paddling a wider kayak, you might need a longer paddle, maybe up to 220 or 225cm, but with a smaller blade area. Although a smaller blade is less effective at gripping the water, will help you avoid straincing muscles and ligaments.
Nigel Foster has become an international name in sea kayaking circles for his instructional skills as well as his boat, paddle and accessory designs. He is author of five books and a series of Sea Kayaking instructional videos. Nigel continues to travel both to teach and to explore new paddling areas all over the world. To learn more about Nigel, go to www.nigelkayaks.com
words: Nigel Foster
Choosing a blade type
There are three basic types of blade: dihedral, spoon and flat curve. Most blades curve in a similar way from shaft to tip, so the types vary in the shape from side to side.
A spoon blade is curved inward from top to bottom and side to side. Hold a spoon blade face-up, pour water onto it and the water will pool in the middle. A spoon blade grabs the water most effectively when you paddle and will therefore be most efficient for creating forward momentum. However, the first thing you’ll notice when you pull straight back on a spoon blade is that it will flutter, reducing your grip on the water. You can eliminate this flutter by guiding the blade edge first away from the kayak as you pull back on it. This technique does take practice though and many beginners will try to reduce the flutter initially by gripping the paddle harder, which is not good for the joints and could lead to injury. A spoon blade can also be tricky for maneuvering strokes as it is likely to curve, trip or dive when slicing the blade away from the boat or skimming it across the surface.
Unlike the spoon blade, the dihedral is ridged like a roof. If you pour water onto a dihedral it will drain rapidly from both sides. This shape means it will grip the water less efficiently, but it will also flutter far less on a regular forward stroke. For beginners the dihedral may be easier to paddle with initially, slipping instead of fluttering when more power is applied and eliminating the desire to grip the paddle too tightly. As with the spoon blade, the dihedral does tend to curve or dive on maneuvering strokes or braces.
A flat curve blade is curved only from top to bottom and is flat from side to side. It is similar to the spoon blade in that it will flutter when pulled straight back, reducing your grip on the water. As with the spoon blade, adjusting your forward stroke can eliminate this issue but it takes some skill and practice. The advantage of the flat curve is that in maneuvering strokes it will remain neutral, slicing cleanly and accurately from one position in the water to another, instead of curving, diving or tripping.
Most blades are a compromise. You sacrifice something to gain something else. Whatever you choose, in most situations you’ll be able to maintain sufficient speed to keep up with your friends. Try to feel the differences and choose what you like. You’ll notice the difference between one style of blade and another most when under load; accelerating, paddling against current or wind or breaking through waves, or when towing someone. When flat-water cruising at slow speeds you won’t see as much difference.
That brings me to my second concept - how much leverage can you comfortably handle? If you get a rock-solid grip on the water, your body will only be able to handle a certain amount of leverage, and that increases with the length of the shaft. You will feel the effect of a longer paddle in the muscles and joints of your shoulders, elbows and wrists. If you ride a bike, you might relate to accelerating using a high gear versus a low gear. With a long paddle it is hard work getting up to speed and it is hard work pushing against the wind or against the current, but it’s not too bad once you are up to speed if conditions are easy. If your paddle is too short you’ll find it really easy to accelerate and easy to paddle against that wind or current, but you’ll have to cycle your paddle rapidly to maintain cruising speed. The compromise lies somewhere between. But it is better for your body if you choose a shorter rather than longer shaft.
Some general length guidelines
For me a paddle length of about 208-210cm for touring works well. I’m 6 feet tall, and I like to maneuver a lot, so a fairly short, flat-curve blade works well in combination with that overall length for my paddling style.
For kayaks between about 18-24 inches wide I’d recommend a paddle of between 200 and 215. If you’re paddling a wider kayak, you might need a longer paddle, maybe up to 220 or 225cm, but with a smaller blade area. Although a smaller blade is less effective at gripping the water, will help you avoid straincing muscles and ligaments.
Nigel Foster has become an international name in sea kayaking circles for his instructional skills as well as his boat, paddle and accessory designs. He is author of five books and a series of Sea Kayaking instructional videos. Nigel continues to travel both to teach and to explore new paddling areas all over the world. To learn more about Nigel, go to www.nigelkayaks.com
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