Sea Kayaking around Maddalena Archipelago
Off the northeastern coast of Sardinia, between Italy and Corsica, La Maddalena Archipelago forms a protected maze of granite islands, clear water, and wind-shaped passages. In this article, Valeria tells us about her autumn journey through these islands, paddling alongside an Italian team of sea kayakers who chose the quietness of the off-season to experience the archipelago at its most authentic.
Some places give themselves to everyone in high season. Others reveal their true nature only when time slows down. Experienced by kayak in the first days of October, the Maddalena Archipelago belongs firmly to the second category.
I joined the tour from October 5th to 8th, stepping in once the expedition was already underway. Most of the group came from Turin and the Naples area, different stories carried by the same pull toward the sea. Leading us with calm authority and long experience was Stefano Zurlo.
Caprera: Granite, Light, and Clear Water
Our first day unfolded as a deeply satisfying circumnavigation of Caprera, roughly eighteen kilometers in total. Paddling close to shore, we reached La Testa du Purpu, an imposing block of granite shaped by wind and sea, where the imagination easily recognizes the head of an octopus.
It was impossible not to be captivated by the granite itself. Smooth, luminous, softened by time, it suggested new forms with every shift of light. Beneath us stretched an extraordinary sea, transparent and turquoise, constantly inviting us to stop and swim.
« An imposing block of granite shaped by wind and sea, where the imagination easily recognizes the head of an octopus. »
We continued on to Cala Napolitana and then Cala Garibaldi, where we paused briefly before reaching the southernmost point of the island and beginning our return. Weather conditions were flawless throughout the day. Clear skies, mild temperatures, and water warm enough for swimming. A rare luxury in places that are crowded in summer and that, in October, seemed to belong only to us.
Santa Maria, Budelli, and Spargi: Colors That Stay With You
The following morning we launched directly from Abbatoggia beach, beside the holiday village where we were staying. A beautiful loop route led us toward the island of Santa Maria, where we landed for a special break. One of the participants celebrated a birthday with simple joy, feet in the sand, kayaks pulled safely ashore.
« An unforgettable swim followed, in water so clear it felt like crystal, a natural swimming pool carved from light. »
Skirting Santa Maria, we then reached Budelli. Here the colors of the sea verge on the unreal. Passing the famous Pink Beach at a respectful distance, in accordance with park regulations, we felt the weight of being close to a place that is both iconic and fragile. Shortly after, we stopped in a small cove for a long rest. An unforgettable swim followed, in water so clear it felt like crystal, a natural swimming pool carved from light.
After lunch we set off toward Spargi, crossing a stretch of open water with a steady wind. For kayakers, wind carries its own appeal. It is a challenge and a measure of physical and mental readiness. The water deepened into an intense blue with hints of violet, making the effort fade behind the emotion of the moment.
Along Spargi’s coast we found more sheltered water, perfect for recovering energy before the final push back to Abbatoggia.
The day ended with dinner among the bungalows, under a star-filled sky largely untouched by light pollution. Later we gathered with the rest of the tour participants for a raffle organized by the guide, with support from Ozone Kayak. It was an easy, convivial evening, made even lighter by a short magic performance from one of the paddlers, which drew smiles from everyone.
The Final Day: The Strength of the Group
Our last outing once again departed from Abbatoggia, tracing the northeast coast of La Maddalena. The route was shorter, since many had evening flights home, but no less evocative.
Tall granite walls, silent inlets, and time-worn shapes surrounded us as we paddled through a landscape that felt almost unreal. There was a deep sense of calm. We passed Porto Massimo and returned to La Testa du Purpu, where we stopped for a final swim and lunch.
« Tall granite walls, silent inlets, and time-worn shapes surrounded us as we paddled through a landscape that felt almost unreal. »
The return leg included a windy section that proved especially demanding for my still limited experience. A strong crosswind made it difficult to hold my line and pushed me relentlessly toward shore. In that moment, one of the most beautiful aspects of this kind of journey emerged. The group. With the help of a fellow paddler, I reached Abbatoggia safely, carrying with me a quiet lesson in humility, cooperation, and trust.
Some Last Words
Paddling through La Maddalena Archipelago out of season, I discovered not only a sea of rare beauty but also the value of silence, slowness, and shared experience. It is the kind of journey that clings to you like salt on your skin, a reminder that sea kayaking is not just a sport but a way of entering into a deeper relationship with both the environment and the people who move through it alongside you.
Words: Valeria Bertoncello
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